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?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. Give us a hand! Super helpful and knowledgeable. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Comp. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. This is very disappointing as people love to hear the motor while the hood is open.Thanks Jon. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Interesting situation you have. Please help. Short drives is fine then it'll Enjoy your Sniper! These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Is this normal ? Try it! Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Um, no. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. (Do this while you are cranking.) I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. I guess we can't have everything. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. Hello Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. Good luck! Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. Going back to what you said. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. All times are GMT-6. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? issue. any advise would be appreciated. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. Check fuel pressure too (. If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. This is more of a bit of a reality check. Jump on board now! The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. No problems with either cold or hot starts. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. Capability Range: Advanced This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. It didnt do this with the carb on it. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. Please let us know how this works out for you! The tps will not auto reset to zero. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! 2. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. It won't take much! Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! i would have been happy to answer there. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. When I shut it off then start it Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. Thanks. idle counts from 0. I keep wondering how it was running so good with I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! mean that the IAC is causing it. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. The last pic is with the car in Drive. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Hey Chris! Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to Tried that and it didn't work? It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. The problem was RF interferance . Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. TPS 0. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. If so remove it. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. Good Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. started up the engine. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). One of them might be faulty. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. I keep doing that with the same result. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. That is the only way to fly. Enjoy! Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. I'd really appreciate some help. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) no timing control. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? Price Point: $$$. back to trying to zero down an idle. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Thanks again. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700.
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